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Tip
#51
Shopsmith
Scroll Saw (continued)
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Bevels
& Chamfers
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Figure
15-14.
When Chamfering irregular shapes, (A) draw a gauging
line around the workpiece and then (B) saw to the line
with the table tilted.
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The scroll
saw table tilts either right or left and locks at any angle
from "0" to 45°. This allows you to add decorative bevels
or chamfers to workpieces and also makes it possible to cut
inlay or relief pieces which will fit into the background
with no visible saw kerf. These inlay techniques are described
later.
In general
scrollwork, almost any shape can be cut with a beveled edge;
however, the complexity of the shape and angle and direction
of the bevel will limit how smoothly and accurately the cut
can be made. For example, outside curves, such as a circle,
can be cut very easily even with a 45° bevel, but tight inside
curves become more and more difficult as the radius gets smaller
and the angle of bevel increases.
It is
also important to keep the workpiece on one side of the blade
if the bevel is to point in the same direction--either in
or out--all the way around the piece. This can limit the complexity
of your designs because tight curves and corners may have
to be cut in a single pass instead of backing up and approaching
them from the opposite direction. Advance planning and your
own skills are especially important when cutting pieces where
the bevel will be visible on the finished project.
The best
way to master bevel cutting is to practice with scrap stock
before beginning on a project. Depending on whether you are
right or left handed, you'll probably find it more comfortable
to tilt the table one way or the other and turn the workpiece
either clockwise or counterclockwise. The table tilt and direction
of rotation will also determine which way the bevel faces.
Chamfers
are similar to bevels except that only a portion of the edge
is cut at an angle, so a second pass must be made after the
piece is cut to shape.
A common
chamfer angle of 45° results in the same amount of stock being
cut from the face and the edge of the piece. Other angles
will change this relationship. Depending on the angle of cut,
the chamfer line can be marked on either the face or the edge
of the workpiece to serve as a cutting guide (Figure 15-14).
As with
beveling, accurate chamfering is difficult-especially on tight
inside turns, so after the chamfer is cut, go back over the
edges with sandpaper or a file to remove rough spots or other
imperfections.
Continue
to Solid Wood Inlays
Back to Piercing Cuts
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