|
Tip
#53
Shopsmith Ovararm Pin Router
Click
here for a printer friendly version of Tip-
Pg. 1-4, Pg
5-8, Pg 9-12, Pg
13-16, Pg 17-20, Pg
21-23
Help
with Downloading PDF Files
Duplicating
|

|
|
Figure
22-28.
Notice how the guide pin rides in a groove on the underside
of the fixture to control the cutting of a matching
profile in the workpiece attached to the top of the
fixture. Click on image for larger view.
|
Of all
the unique capabilities provided by the overarm mode of the
routing system, high-speed duplication of complete projects
or project components is the most interesting and challenging.
Through
the use of shop-made guiding fixtures, you will be able to
make an unlimited number of identical pieces, quickly and
accurately.
As we
explained briefly in the beginning of this chapter, the process
works by guiding a pre-cut fixture over a pin which protrudes
up from the routing system table surface. When a bit is installed
directly above the pin (and in perfect alignment with it),
a matching pattern is cut into a workpiece attached to the
opposite side of the fixture (Figure
22-28).
Types
and Styles of Fixtures
There are two types of fixtures that can be used with the
routing system: permanent and temporary.
Permanent
Fixtures are more complicated in their design and allow
for rapid attachment and removal of workpieces in a repetitive
fashion. They are generally used when making five or more
of the same project or component.
Temporary
Fixtures are usually nothing more than a wooden template
of a simple design that is merely screwed to your workpiece.
Temporary fixtures often require more time to attach and remove
the workpieces than permanent fixtures. This is perfectly
acceptable since it makes little sense to spend a lot of time
building a complicated fixture that will be used to produce
less than five identical projects or components.
|

|
|
Figure
22-29.
A typical screw-on fixture.
|
When making
fixtures, it's important to think about how many times they
will be used before deciding how the workpiece will be held
in position. If you're planning to make a large number of
the same piece, you will want a fixture that allows the rapid
attachment and removal of stock. If you're only making one
or a few of the same piece, this is less important.
There
are a number of different styles of fixtures, determined
by the way the stock is held in position and whether you are
cutting on the outside, inside or both edges of your workpiece:
Screw-on
Fixtures (Figure
22-29) are among the simplest in design. With this style,
screws are driven up from the underside of the fixture and
into the workpiece to hold it firmly in position during operations.
If you have a power screwdriver or variable-speed reversible
drill with screwdriver bits, this attachment style works equally
well for both temporary and permanent fixtures and is a "must"
if you are removing the outside edge of your workpiece.
|

|
|
Figure
22-30.
A typical drive-on fixture.
|
Drive-on
Fixtures (Figure
22-30) feature screws driven up through the bottom of
the fixture so they protrude 1/8" to 1/4" above the top surface.
The work-piece is positioned on top of the fixture and struck
with a hammer or your hand to temporarily "impale" it on the
protruding screw points. This attachment style is also ideal
for either permanent or temporary fixtures and is a good option
when removing the outside edge of your workpiece. Always use
sheet metal screws for these fixtures, since they have threads
all the way down the shank. Once you've driven the screws
through the fixture, sharpen the protruding points with a
file.
|

|
|
Figure
22-31.
Two typical clamp-in fixtures: (A) floating bar and(B)
cam clamp.
|
Clamp-in
Fixtures (Figure
22-31) are the most complicated style, yet offer the distinct
advantage of quick workpiece attachment and removal. Since
they require more time to build than any of the other types,
they are usually reserved for situations where you will be
cutting-out large numbers of the same item. With these fixtures,
the stock is clamped firmly in position during operations
by a "floating" bar or cam clamp. Since the workpiece is gripped
by the edge, this style of fixture will not allow full-depth
cuts around the outside perimeter of the stock.
Drop-in
Fixtures (Figure
22-32) are made the same way as clamp-in fixtures, but
have no bar or clamps to hold the workpiece in position. Instead,
the stock is merely dropped into the frame and cut as it would
be
with a
clamp-in fixture. Warning: A tight fit of the workpiece
is critical to keep it from moving during operations. Again,
these fixtures are recommended for high-volume situations
and not for projects where full-depth cuts around the perimeter
of the stock are required.
|

|
|
Figure
22-32.
A typical drop-in fixture. Click on image for larger
view.
|
|

|
|
Figure
22-33.
A typical profile fixture. Click on image for larger
view.
|
Profile
Fixtures are usually a combination of drive-on and drop-in
styles (Figure
22-33). The most common application for these is the making
of fence post tops and similar projects. They usually contain
sides to help position the workpiece and protruding screw
points to keep it from moving during operations. However,
they can also be made with floating clamp bars or eccentric
clamps, if you like. If the profile is identical on both sides
of the workpiece, the fixture can be profiled on one side
only and the stock flipped over to cut the second side.
|

|
|
Figure
22-34.
A typical double-stick tape fixture. Click on image
for larger view.
|
Double-Stick
Tape Fixtures (Figure
22-34) are very simple to make and work very well when
the workpiece must be cut around the perimeter and is too
thin to grip from below with screws. They can be made with
readily available double-stick tape and should only be used
when the stock is large enough to hold firmly in position
with your hands a safe distance from the rotating bit. They
are intended primarily for low-volume production jobs. Warning:
Change tape frequently, since wood dust and repeated use will
cause its adhesive qualities to fail after a few uses.
Continue
to Squaring Stock
Back to Jointing Four Edges
|