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Tip
#55
Table Saw Basic Cuts
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Ripping
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Figure
2-35.
To set up for ripping, use the quill feed to make fine
adjustments in the distance from the saw blade to the
rip fence. Measure from the fence to the tip of a saw
tooth that's set toward the fence. Click on image for
larger view.
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Ripping
is cutting parallel to or with the grain of the wood. It's
also known as cutting to width.
General
Ripping
Mount the proper saw blade. Before turning on the machine
check that the saw guards are in place, adjust the table height,
and make a five-point check. All five locks--power plant,
carriage, table height, table tilt, and quill--should be secure.
When ripping,
use the rip fence to help guide the wood. Mount the rip fence
to the table, slide the rip fence so that it's the desired
distance away from the saw blade, then lock it in place. Use
the quill feed to make fine adjustments (Figure
2-35). Be sure to measure from the fence to the tip of
a tooth that's set toward the fence. When properly aligned,
the rip fence automatically sets itself parallel to the saw
blade. However, on critical setups, it's wise to check this.
Measure the distance from the rip fence to the saw blade at
both the front and back of the machine. Mount a feather board
in front of the blade to help hold the stock against the fence.
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Figure
2-36.
The rip fence gauges the cut width and acts as a control
throughout the pass. Hands are placed so they can't
come close to the cut area.
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Stand
in front of the Mark V, on the opposite side of the blade
than the rip fence. (This position will help you keep the
stock pressed against the fence as you rip it.) Turn on the
Mark V, turn the speed dial to the proper speed, and let the
saw come up to speed. Place the stock on the table and against
the rip fence. Slowly feed the stock into the blade while
keeping it pressed firmly against the rip fence (Figure
2-36). Don't force the cut or go any faster than the blade
can cut. Warning: As you finish the cut, use a push stick
or push block to help feed the last portion of the stock past
the blade (Figure
2-37). This will keep your hands and fingers out of danger.
When the cut is complete, turn off the machine and let it
come to a complete stop before removingthe stock or any scraps.
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Figure
2-37.
As you finish the rip cut, use a (A) push stick or (B)
push block to help feed the last portion of the stock.
Click on image to see larger view.
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Figure
2-38.
When ripping narrow stock, use a fence straddler to
help finish the cut.
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Ripping
Narrow Stock
When ripping
narrow stock--1-1/2" to 3" wide--use the fence straddler to
finish the cut (Figure
2-38). When ripping stock less than higher than the thickness
of the stock (Figure
2-39) and screw it to the rip fence so that the fence
doesn't interfere with the saw guard or the stock being cut.
Use a similar size piece of scrap stock to push the good stock
past the blade (Figure
2-40). Caution: Do not use the plastic push stick from
the safety kit. When the good stock is clear of the blade,
turn off the Mark V. Hold the scrap push stick steady until
the blade comes to a complete stop, then move it away from
the blade. To keep small pieces of stock from falling through
the table insert, move the blade close to the insert on the
side of the blade where the stock is being cut, or use a special
table insert. The construction details for the special table
inserts are shown in Figure
2-11.
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Figure
2-39.
Construction details of a spacing fixture that is used
when ripping stock less than 1-1/2" wide. Click on image
for larger view.
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Figure
2-40.
Clamp a spacing fixture to the rip fence to keep the
fence from interfering with the saw guard or the stock
being cut.
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Figure
2-41.
To rip wide stock, mount the rip fence so it straddles
the extension table and the worktable. The rip fence
accurately guides the stock.
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Ripping
Wide Stock
If you're
ripping stock that is 5-1/2" to 8-1/2" wide (Model 500) and
8-3/4" to 10-3/4" wide (Model 510), you can mount the rip
fence so it straddles the extension table and the worktable.
Be sure that the extension table and the worktable and rip
fence are properly aligned, then slide the power plant and
carriage to the right so that the worktable butts against
the extension table. Position the rip fence so the saw blade
is the desired distance from the rip fence and make fine adjustments
with the quill feed. As you feed the stock, the rip fence
will accurately guide the stock (Figure
2-41).
Ripping
Large Stock
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Figure
2-42.
A support table ne/ps support large stock at the outfeed
end of the worktable.
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Whenever
you need to rip large pieces of stock such as plywood, paneling
and other sheet materials it is very important that the stock
be properly supported throughout the cut. Also, get a helper
if the material you're ripping is too large to safely handle
by yourself. There are several setups that provide the proper
support.
One setup
for ripping sheet materials is to mount an extension table
on one or both sides of the machine, then mount the rip fence
on the extension table.
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Figure
2-43.
The Model 510 extension table system supports wide stock.
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You can
also mount a support table (Figure
2-42) or use a roller stand at the outfeed end of the
worktable. For even more support, also use a support table
(Model 510 only) or roller stand at the infeed end of the
worktable. With the Model 510, you can also use the extension
table system (Figure
2-43).
Ripping
Long Stock
When ripping long stock it is extremely important to support
the stock during the cut. Warning: If the stock is too
long to safely handle by yourself get a helper to assist you.
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Figure
2-44.
Use a support table when ripping long stock.
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One way
to support the stock is to mount a support table to the outfeed
end of the worktable (Figure
2-44) or position a roller stand 1' to 4' away from the
outfeed end of the worktable (Figure
2-45). You may also want to position a roller stand at
the infeed end of the worktable. If the stock is extremely
long (over 6'), you will want to use a roller stand positioned
2' to 4' beyond the support table (Figure
2-46). On the Model 510 you can mount a second support
table at the infeed end of the worktable for extra support.
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Figure
2-45.
A roller stand provides support for long stock.
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Figure
2-46.
If the stock is extremely long, use a support table
and two roller stands.
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As you
feed the stock, it comes off the outfeed end of the table
and the support table and/or the roller stand will support
it.
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Figure
2-47.
Use a rip fence extension when ripping long and wide
boards, and even plywood.
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Figure
2-47 shows a rip fence extension that is used for ripping
long and wide boards, and even plywood. To make the rip fence
extension (Figure
2-48), use 3/4" plywood or clear straight hardwood. Drill
and counterbore holes for the mounting bolts. Attach the support
to the back with glue and screws. Mount 1-3/4" wide strips
to the bottom edge for more support.
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Figure
2-48.
Construction details of a rip fence extension. Click
on image for larger view.
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Sawing
Stock with Irregular Edges
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Figure
2-49.
Construction details of a guide used for ripping stock
with irregular edges. Click on image for larger view.
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Sometimes
a piece of stock may not have an edge that is straight enough
to be used against the rip fence. Maybe the piece has been
cut on both edges with a jigsaw or bandsaw, or it might be
uneven, rough lumber. These pieces of stock can be rip cut
by the guide-strip method. A narrow, straight piece of stock
is clamped or tack-nailed to the underside of the stock to
be used as a guide. Or make a guide as shown in Figure
2-49.
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Figure
2-50.
You can straighten stock with irregular edges by working
this way. The guide rides against (A) the rip fence
on the Model 510 and(B) against the edge of the table
on the Model 500.
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On the
Model 510, mount the rip fence to the extension table and
lower it until the top of the rip fence is flush with the
top of the table. The guide will ride against the rip fence
(Figure 2-50A).
On the Model 500, the guide rides against the edge of the
table (Figure
2-50B). Where you place the guide strip will determine
how much of the irregular edge of the stock will be removed.
Since
the worktable can be moved along the way tubes, some large-sized
pieces of stock can be handled in this fashion.
Taper
Ripping
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Figure
2-51.
Construction details of a taper guide. Click on image
for larger view.
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Taper
rip cuts, needed for many projects, call for a taper guide
that has one straight side that can move along the rip fence
and an adjustable side that can be locked at an angle to gauge
the amount of taper. You can buy a taper guide or make one
as shown in Figure
2-51. Surface-mount or mortise the hinge on the ends of
the legs. The crosspiece, or brace, that is used to secure
settings can be made of metal instead of wood.
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Figure
2-52.
Mark across the legs 12" away from the hinged end; then
you can measure between the marks to set the guide for
a particular taper per foot.
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After
the guide is assembled, mark a line across both legs 12" away
from the hinged end. Because of the 12" marks, you can preset
the guide for particular tapers by measuring between the legs
(Figure 2-52).
For example, if you were making a stool with legs that are
12" long, 3" wide at the top, and 2" wide at the bottom, you
would need to cut a 1" per foot taper. By separating the legs
1" at the 12" mark, you would have the correct setting for
the guide to cut the taper on two adjacent sides only.
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Figure
2-53.
You can calibrate the cross brace for particular taper-per-foot
settings.
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To provide
a scale for future adjustments, separate the legs to various
dimensions across the 12" marks and use a pencil to mark the
settings on the cross brace (Figure
2-53).
When a
project component, a table leg, for example, needs to be tapered
on four sides, make one pass and then a second pass on an
adjacent side of the stock without changing the guide's setting.
Adjust the guide to twice the original setting and then make
a third and fourth pass consecutively on the next adjacent
sides.
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Figure
2-54.
This is how the workpiece is placed in the taper guide.
Place hands as you would for regular rip cuts. Be sure
the guide rides against the fence throughout the pass.
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Use a
taper guide as shown in Figure
2-54. The workpiece is placed flush against the leg of
the guide. Both the guide and the workpiece are then moved
forward to make the cut. Notice that the worktable is positioned
at the right end and lined up with the extension table to
increase the work-piece support area. The operation is done
just like a routine rip cut. The only difference is that the
workpiece is fed forward by moving the guide.
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Figure
2-55.
When you require the same taper on opposite edges, reposition
the workpiece, set the guide for twice the originaltaper,
and make a second pass.
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When the
same taper is required on the opposite side of the stock,
make the first cut as just described; then adjust the guide
to twice its original opening. Position the stock so the edge
already tapered is against the guide, and make a second pass
(Figure 2-55).
Other
Tapering Techniques--The step guide, diagrammed in Figure
2-56, is a good aid for production-type work because it
eliminates having to set the variable guide for different
tapers. The steps in the guide, which are dimensioned for
particular cuts, gauge the amount of taper. Each step will
consistently produce the same taper. The work is placed so
that one corner is in the correct step and the opposite end
butts against the arm of the guide. The straight edge of the
guide rides against the rip fence. against the rip fence.
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Figure
2-56.
A step guide is a good aid if you do production work
and will frequently be needing a particular taper. Click
on image for larger view.
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Back to
Introduction
Back to Crosscutting
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