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Tip #119
How To Make A Bandsaw Re-Saw Jig

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All bandsaw blades have a certain amount of "lead" (the tendency of the blade to wander off the cutting line), depending on the set and style of the blade's teeth. The amount of this "lead" varies from blade-to-blade. That's why it's usually not good enough to align your Bandsaw's Rip Fence squarely with your blade and assume that merely pushing your workpiece through the blade will create a straight line. Chances are good that this simply won't be the case.

This becomes most apparent when attempting to resaw thin boards out of thick ones. For that reason, your Bandsaw's Rip Fence is usually NOT the best way to guide a wide (3" or wider) board through a resaw cut. There is a high probability that your blade will wander off and you won't like the cut. If you're planning to maintain a consistent thickness from end-to-end when making a resaw cut, you'll save yourself a lot of time and headaches by building yourself one of these simple jigs.

Fig. 1 shows the plan for the Jig. Make it from a 5" x 6" piece of 3/4" thick Apple Ply, Baltic Birch or similar multi-layered, voidless plywood. When cutting it out, it's IMPERATIVE that you maintain a 90-degree angle between the vertical face of the jig and it's "foot".

The vertical face features a "bullnose" edge that rests against your workpiece when making your cuts. Form this edge with your Router Table and a 3/8" Round-Over Router Bit passed down each side of your jig's vertical face. Use a 1/4" Straight Bit to cut the travel slot. That's pretty much it.

If you have a later model Shopsmith Bandsaw, you can attach the jig to the table with a 1/4"-20 bolt, fender washer and a Sliding T-Nut, slipped into your Miter Gauge slot. If you have an older model Shopsmith Bandsaw (or one without T-Slot Miter Gauge Slots), you can merely C-Clamp it to your worktable. If you'll be using the latter of these two approaches, there's no need for you to cut the travel slots when making the fixture.

This device has been designed with a rounded face that your workpiece surface rests against during the cutting process. To use the jig, first use a marking gauge or similar device to draw a line down the full length of the workpiece's edge that will be up (and visible to you) while cutting. This line will serve as your guide.

Then, simply start your cut, always holding the wide face of your workpiece firmly against the vertical "bullnose" of the jig as you advance your stock slowly through the cut. Watch closely to see which way the blade "leads" as you cut. To correct for the "lead", simply swing the end of your workpiece left or right to compensate and keep your cut going straight down the line. It's just that simple.

Click image for larger view.
Fig. 1 Click image for larger view.


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