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Tip
#23
Successful
Routing
(continued)
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version of Tip - Pg. 1-3, Pg.
4-6, Pg. 7-9
Dovetails
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Figure
10-10. These are typical examples of dovetail
joints
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A dovetail
is one of the strongest joints in woodworking because it will
resist a pulling strain in every direction but the one from
which the tenons are inserted into the slots. Two common applications
are shown in Figure 10-10.
The same
dovetail cutter is used to form both the tenon and the slot.
Mating the parts is a matter of positioning the cuts in proper
relationship to each other.
Spacing
of the cuts is determined by the size of the cutter and the
design of the joint. One method is to mark the workpiece and
align each cut with the cutter. Another method is to pencil
mark the worktable so that the edge of the workpiece can be
moved forward to a new mark after each cut. When you mark
the worktable, first determine the centerline of the spindle;
then mark the cutlines by measuring toward the worktable edges,
front and rear. One technique is to use measuring tape which
has a gummed side. This may be placed on the worktable and
then removed when not in use.
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Figure
10-11. Dovetail tenons can be formed as shown. The
table height lever (Model 500) or table height crank
(Model 510) is used as the forward feed mechanism.
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To cut
dovetail tenons as shown in Figure
10-11, position the worktable parallel to the way tubes.
Use the table height lever (Model 500) or table height crank
(Model 510) as a forward feed mechanism, the stop collars
from the lathe tailstock to control table movement, the quill
feed lever to obtain exact depth of cut, the rip fence as
a platform for the workpiece and the miter gauge to square
the work-piece to the cutter. When feeding the workpiece forward
against the cutter, move the worktable slowly, and be sure
the workpiece is clamped securely in place. After the cut
is made, turn off the Mark V and return the worktable to the
starting position. If desired, place the workpiece for the
next cut and repeat the procedure.
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Figure
10-12. Make dovetail slots using a feather board
and push block.
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The mating
cuts are formed with the worktable in the horizontal position
and with the fence used as a guide (Figure
10-12). The table is brought up as close to the cutter
as possible, and the final adjustment is made by extending
the quill. The workpiece is fed forward against the cutter.
A stop is clamped on the fence to control the length of cut.
For spacing, the fence can be moved for each new cut or the
worktable can be advanced-again by using the table height
mechanism as a forward feed device. When feeding the workpiece
against the cutter, hold it firmly on the worktable and push
it slowly. Caution: If the cut is for a through dovetail,
use a scrap block between the work and the table.
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Figure
10-13. This long dovetail slot might be required
for a sliding assembly. Note the position of the worktable
and the rip fence and the use of the feather board and
fence extension.
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The tenon
on a single, wide dovetail is formed by making two cuts, one
on each end of the stock. The mating part is formed the same
way, with the waste stock cut away by running the work across
the cutter within limits set by the two end cuts and stop
blocks. Care must be exercised in positioning the pieces for
successive cuts, but testing in scrap wood before cutting
will make this easier. By using the setups shown in Figures
10-13 and 10-14,
you can join boards edge-to-edge or provide a sliding arrangement.
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Figure
10-14. A dovetail tenon is formed in two passes,
one one each face of the stock.
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Cut the
slot in one pass by placing the table as shown and adjusting
it so the cut is made directly down the centerline of the
board (Figure
10-13). Depth of cut is set by lowering the quill and
locking it in position. Feed the workpiece slowly and keep
it flat against the table. Don't force the workpiece. The
tenon requires two passes. The workpiece is positioned so
the cutter forms the tenon on one side of the board. Then
the workpiece is turned and the second pass is made; thus,
the cutter completes the forming of the tenon on the opposite
surface of the board (Figure
10-14). Here, even more than elsewhere, be sure the workpiece
is held firmly and flat against the table.
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Figure
10-15. A sliding table greatly simplifies cutting
a dovetail slot in an extra wide piece.
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Wide stock
that must be grooved across the grain requires a sliding table
arrangement to which the work can be clamped (Figure
10-15). The fixture is constructed as shown in Figure
10-16, with the runners situated so the platform will
slide smoothly on the table. The table is raised to an approximate
position and the final adjustment for depth of cut is made
by using the quill feed lever.
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Figure
10-16. Construction details of the sliding table.
Runners should fit snugly against the edges of the table
(Model 500) or the table tubes (Model 510). Click on
image for larger view.
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Figure
10-17. Two passes are needed on an extra-wide workpiece.
Be sure to align the bit and the kerf.
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With this
arrangement the length of cut is limited to the distance from
the cutter to the tubes. On narrow stock the groove can be
completed in one pass by using a spacer board between the
workpiece and the fence. Wide boards require two cuts from
opposite sides of the board on a common centerline. Alignment
is important. Locate the cutter center by marking a pencil
line on the fence of the sliding table. Mark lines on the
workpiece to locate the centerlines of the grooves. Align
these with the mark on the fence. Since the first half-cut
(on wide boards) removes the line, it is necessary to use
a straightedge to realign the workpiece with the mark on the
fence before completing the cut (Figure
10-17). This method is not limited to dovetail grooves;
straight grooves are cut with router bits, and the procedure
is exactly the same.
Continue
to Horizontal Routing
Back to Mortises
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