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Tip
#29
Doing
Jointery on Your Table Saw
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28, Table
3-1
Bevel
Cuts
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Figure
3-7. Some examples of how miter cuts can be used
to form four-, six- and eight-sided projects.
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Bevel
cuts are made with the worktable positioned at an angle other
than 90° to the blade. Slide the carriage and the power plant
all the way to the right. This will allow you to move the
workpiece freely across the table without interfering with
the way tubes. The angle considerations that apply to miters
also apply to cross miters and bevels (Figure
3-7). The cut angle is always one-half of the joint angle.
Crosscut
Bevels
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Figure
3-8. Crosscut bevels are cut with the miter gauge
at 90-degrees and with the table tilted.
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To make
a crosscut bevel, set the worktable at the desired angle and
use the miter gauge to guide the workpiece (Figure
3-8). Mount the miter gauge on the downside of the table
only. This will provide better support for the workpiece,
help eliminate kickbacks, keep the miter gauge from hitting
the blade, and keep your hands out of danger.
Rip
Bevels
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Figure
3-9. Rip bevels are made with the table tilted and
the workpiece usually riding against the rip fence.
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A rip
bevel is made with the table tilted, the workpiece usually
riding against the rip fence (Figure
3-9). Warning: Mount the rip fence on the downside
of the table to provide better support for the workpiece,
help eliminate kick-back, and keep your hands out of danger.
On the Model 500 there will be times when the width of a workpiece
will prevent you from using the rip fence. If this is the
case, clamp a long, straight board to the underside of the
workpiece and rest this board over the upper edge of the table
(Figure 3-10).
If properly positioned, the board will guide the workpiece
as accurately as a rip fence. If you have a Model 510, use
the rip fence and the extension table system to support wide
stock (Figure
3-11).
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Figure
3-10. To rip a bevel in a wide board clamp a long,
straight board to the underside of the workpiece. Hook
this board over the upper edge of the table and use
it as a guide.
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Figure
3-11. When ripping a bevel in wide stock, use the
rip fence and the extension table system (Model 510)
to support the stock.
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Figure
3-12. Small segments can be assembled this way,
using glue and a stapling gun. A band clamp or rubber
bands can be used to hold the pieces until the glue
dries.
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Small,
cross beveled or rip beveled segments are easy to assemble
if you work as shown in Figure
3-12. Coat mating surfaces with glue and hold them tightly
together as you drive staples to serve as "clamps." Use a
band clamp or rubber bands after the assembly is complete
to hold the pieces together until the glue is dry.
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Figure
3-13. Segments can be precut with straight sides
and then beveled like this. Cut one side, turn stock
end-for-end, and cut second side. The fence position
is not changed.
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A convenient
way to cut beveled segments is shown in Figure
3-13. First cut the segments to the length and width you
need. Set the table to the correct tilt and the fence to control
the width of cut. Cut the bevel on one edge of the stock and
then, without changing the setting, turn the stock end-for-end
and bevel the second edge.
V-Cuts
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Figure
3-14. V-cuts are done in this manner. The cuts must
meet at the bottom of the "V". The waste stock
may be kicked back, so stand on either side of the blade.
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V-shapes
are formed by opposing bevel cuts that do not go through the
stock and which meet to form an angle. Work as shown in Figure
3-14 when the "V" must be down the center of the stock.
Set the saw blade's projection to the depth of the "V" needed.
Set the rip fence so the center of the workpiece will match
the topmost point of the saw blade. Make one pass and, after
turning the stock end-for-end, make a second pass. Warning:
Be sure to stand to one side when you make the second pass
because the V-shaped waste piece might be kicked back toward
the front of the table by the action of the saw blade.
V-cuts
that are not centered are done almost the same way. The difference
is that the rip fence must be relocated to position the workpiece
for the second pass.
Continue
to Compound Angles
Back to Miter Cuts
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