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Tip
#30
Shopsmith
Lathe Duplicator Tutorial
Click
here for a printer friendly version of Tip-
Pg. 1-3, Pg
4-6, Pg 7-9, Pg
10-12, Pg 13-15, Pg
16
Cutters
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Figure
13-8. Five cutters handle a variety of profiles.
(A) 1/2" Round, (B) 3/8" Square, (C) 35°
Diamond, (D) 60° Triangle, and (E) 1/2" Cone.
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A total
of five different cutters are available for the lathe duplicator
and each cutter is supplied with a matching nylon follower
tip which traces the profile of the template or pattern during
duplication.
All of
the cutters except the cone cutter are made of carbide and
will stay sharp for many hours of turning. Warning: Never
attempt to grind these carbide cutters because the dust can
produce eye and skin irritation as well as respiratory system
and internal organ damage.
The cutters
are shown in Figure
13-8 and are described below:
1/2"
Round Cutter-This is the best cutter for initial shaping.
It is also very good for forming graceful curves, cove cuts
and dishing.
3/8"
Square Cutter-The square cutter may be used for rough
shaping, but it is best for turning square corners, grooves,
short dowels, plugs and straight profiles. It is a good choice
for forming tenons when making multi-section turnings.
35°
Diamond Cutter-Best for turning fine beads, deep grooves,
sharp corners and intricate detail because the narrow tip
allows greater penetration.
60°
Triangle Cutter-This is often considered the universal
cutter because of its versatility. It produces good results
in work ranging from rough shaping down to medium detail.
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Figure
13-9. The traingle cutter can be mounted with the
point or a flat side facing the workpiece.
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Normally
the triangle cutter is mounted with the point facing the workpiece,
however, it may also be used with a flat side facing the work
if a square cutter is not available (Figure
13-9).
1/2"
Cone Cutter-The cone cutter is recommended for spindle
turning only. It cuts quickly for rough shaping and is ideal
for fin-ishing cuts when the shape of the turning permits.
The four
carbide cutters cut with a scraping action and produce a somewhat
rough surface. The cone cutter, however, is made of steel
and has a sharpened edge which shaves the wood instead of
scraping it away. This allows the cone cutter to cut faster
and more smoothly, but the cutting edge will not last as long
as the carbide cutters. Warning: The cone cutter is not
recommended for faceplate work because its sharp cutting edge
tends to bite too deeply into the end grain of the workpiece.
To get
the longest life from the cone cutter, divide the tip into
quarters and use one section of the cutting edge until it
is dull. Then mark that section with a colored marker and
rotate the tip 90° to the next section. Sharpen or replace
the cone cutter when the entire edge becomes dull.
Continue
toTurning Characteristics of Common
Woods
Back to Critical Alignments
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