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Tip
#31
Band
Sawing Versatility (continued)
Click here for a printer friendly version of Tip-
Pg. 1-3, Pg
4-6, Pg 7-9, Pg
10-12, Pg 13-15,
Pg 16-18
Ripping
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Figure
14-15. Lock the miter gauge with an extension attached
in the table slot that runs perpendicular to the flat
of the blade, and use it as a rip fence for ripping
operations.
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By locking
the miter gauge in the table slot that runs perpendicular
to the flat of the blade, you can use the miter gauge as a
rip fence (Figure
14-15). Secure the miter gauge in the slot by turning
the Allen screw in the center of the miter gauge bar clockwise.
This presses the sides of the bar out against the sides of
the slot. We also suggest you put a single thickness of paper
in the table slot near the miter bar locking screw, as an
extra precaution to keep the miter gauge from shifting during
ripping operations.
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Figure
14-16. (A) A standard miter gauge extension makes
a useful fence for average ripping operations. The locking
miter gauge is what makes this and similar setups possible.
(B) A longer extension provides more support when ripping
extra-long workpieces. (C) A higher extension provides
needed support for resawing operations.
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If you
need more support for the workpiece, attach a miter gauge
extension to the miter gauge. The standard extension, mounted
on the miter gauge (Figure
14-16A), is suitable for normal ripping operations. A
longer extension (Figure
14-16B) provides needed support when handling long stock,
while a higher extension (Figure
14-16C) will help you work more accurately when doing
resawing. The sizes of all three extensions and the mounting
holes they need are detailed in Figure
14-17. You may also want to use a roller stand or the
Mark V table and rip fence to help support the workpiece on
either the infeed or outfeed side of the bandsaw.
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Figure
14-17. Construction details of three miter gauge
extensions. Click on image for larger view.
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When you're
using the miter gauge as a rip fence, pay particular attention
to blade lead-the tendency of the blade to drift off the cutting
line in one direction. To correct blade lead, first try readjusting
the blade guides or angling the miter gauge slightly. If this
doesn't work, refer to the Bandsaw Owners Manual to correct
blade lead. If after trying both of these remedies blade lead
remains a problem, slow down the feed and give the blade more
time to make the cut and stay straight.
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Figure
14-18. Ripping will be accurate if you feed at a
reasonable speed and keep the workpiece against the
miter gauge extension. Ripping against an extension
will be a problem if the blade has lead.
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When ripping,
feed the stock very slowly and be sure to maintain the extension-to-work
contact throughout the pass. You can use your hands as shown
in Figure 14-18;
or, if there is enough room between the extension and the
blade, use your left hand on the extension much as if you
were doing a rip cut on the table saw. But, in any case, be
sure to keep a push stick handy during ripping operations
and use it to feed the stock during the last few inches. Also,
if you force the cut, it is likely that the stock will move
away from the fence or the blade will wander off the cutline.
Extension-guided ripping won't work if the blade has lead.
You must eliminate the lead, change to another blade, or make
the cut freehand.
On a few
operations, such as sawing or ripping thick stock with a thin
blade, it may be necessary to increase the blade tension slightly
beyond the normal setting. However, this increased tension
will shorten the life of your blade. Always remember to reset
the tension screw when you no longer need the extra tension.
If accuracy
is not critical or the blade is showing excessive lead, you
can also make rip cuts freehand. Just remember not to work
with pieces so small that they bring your fingers inside the
danger zone. Use a push stick instead.
Continue
to Resawing
Back to Crosscutting
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