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Tip
#35
Belt Sander
(continued)
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Helpful
Wood Sanding Hints
Getting
a smooth, clean surface begins by making sure you hold the
stock flat against the abrasive belt, keep the stock moving,
and sand all areas evenly. Here are a few additional tips
to help you get the best results:
Working
in the Center of the Belt--Work in the center of the abrasive
belt, especially if you're sanding small workpieces. If you
sand on the edges, the belt will drift off center, rub up
against the belt sander frame, and begin to fray.
Cleaning
Abrasive Belts--As you work with your belt sander, sawdust
and other materials will accumulate on the belt, making the
abrasive surface smooth and useless. You can extend the life
of your abrasive belts by cleaning them occasionally with
an abrasive cleaning stick. Simply hold the cleaning stick
against the abrasive belt while the machine is running.
Sanding
Glue--The belt sander is especially useful in truing
up glue joints, sanding off high or uneven surfaces
and excess glue. But glue will quickly accumulate on the belt,
even more quickly than sawdust. And if the glue dries on the
belt or melts into the fabric, it will be impossible to remove.
To minimize the glue that accumulates on the belt and to safely
sand glued-up stock, let all glue joints dry at least 24 hours.
Then knock off the largest glue beads with a scraper or chisel
before sanding the workpiece. Warning: Let glued-up stock
dry at /east 24 hours prior to sanding. Sand the workpieces
slowly, apply very light pressure, and don't allow the friction
of the belt to melt the glue. Clean the belt with an abrasive
cleaning stick immediately after sanding.
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Figure
19-24. A roller stand and/or a worktable extension
provide additional support.
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Removing
Paints and Other Finishes--The belt sander can also be
used to clean up secondhand wood, especially wood that has
been painted or finished. But like glue, these substances
will quickly accumulate on your abrasive belt and stay there.
Remove the majority of the old finish from the wood with a
chemical paint remover and/or scraper. If you use a water-based
remover, allow the workpiece to dry 24 hours before sanding
it. Once the majority of the old finish has been stripped
from the wood, sand the surface clean on the belt sander.
Warning: Be sure to wear a dust mask and never sand surfaces
painted with lead paint. When you've finished, clean the
belt with an abrasive cleaning stick.
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Figure
19-25. Construction details of the worktable extension.
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Using
Additional Support--Extremely long or odd-shaped workpieces
may require additional support in order to sand them safely
and accurately. A roller stand and/or a worktable extension
provide additional support during sanding operations (Figure
19-24). Construction details for building the extension
are shown in Figure
19-25.
As shown
in Figure 19-26,
the worktable extension can also be used when a drum sander
is mounted on the belt
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Figure
19-26. To save wear and tear on your abrasive belts
and idler drum when sanding a lot of concave curves,
mount a drum sander on the belt sander auxiliary spindle.
The worktable and worktable extension provide support.
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sander
auxiliary spindle. Position the worktable on the right side
of the machine, parallel to but facing away from the belt.
Warning: Tape or tie up the table tilt lock so it doesn't
contact the belt.
Back to
Sanding Compound Curves and Odd Shapes
Back to Introduction
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