Tip #42
Finishing Touches
Part 2 of 6 - Applying an Oil Finish (continued)
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Teak Oil

A number of naturally oily hardwoods such as teak, rosewood, cocobolo, padauk and ebony will bleed off an oil finish and never seem to dry. One way to get around this problem is to wash the project with an inexpensive paint thinner before applying the oil. The thinner will remove some of the resins near the surface, making it easier for the oil finish to penetrate the wood and dry. Be aware, however, that this technique could discolor your wood. For that reason, we recommend that you test it out on a piece of scrap wood (the same species, of course) before risking your project.

If you'd rather not mess with paint thinners, try Teak Oil. This finish contains special drying agents that help the oil to penetrate and harden on a resinous wood without discoloring. Applied in much the same manner as Danish Oil, it should be wet-sanded into the wood's surface to ensure the smoothest finish. Let it dry for 24 hours between coats. If you want, you can use Teak Oil as a primer and sealer for other finishes.

To determine whether or not you should use Teak Oil on a particular wood, pay attention to the way the wood feels and how it sands. If it feels waxy and the sandpaper loads-up easily, you would probably benefit from the Teak Oil. To be certain, test the Teak Oil against other finishes on scrap pieces.

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